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@emenezes What I took from the conversation  with them was that the offset dial was by design on its own but that as a byproduc,t it allows for larger barrels so they were wise enough to take advantage of it.

4 days, 13 hours ago on Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Watch Hands-On: Engraved & Beautiful

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@Fraser Petrick  

I think white lume works better than 'antique' lume for the black dialed watch.


4 days, 14 hours ago on Junghans Meister Telemeter Watch Is Going For Distance! And Going For Speed!

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I may need a shower after reading that. Ariel my friend, your watch lust has gotten completely out of hand. But at least it is well deserved. Gorgeous watch and as you pointed out, high as the price is, it is very reasonable within the segment of the watch world that it inhabits.

And for those you don't like the Armin Strom trademark offset dial, it is very discrete on this piece. Besides the AS folks pointed out to me that besides being a hallmark feature of their brand, the offset dial allows for larger mainspring barrels. So there - there is a valid technical reason for the offset dial.

5 days, 1 hour ago on Armin Strom One Week Skeleton Watch Hands-On: Engraved & Beautiful

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@spiceballs Is that an atomic watch in your pocket or are you just happy to see me? (to paraphrasee Mae West).

6 days, 7 hours ago on Bathys Cesium 133 Atomic Clock Watch Now On Kickstarter

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I think the watch needs a solar panel (which it certainly has the surface area for) to keep it charged up. The new Tissot we saw at BaselWorld can charge up for a year with only a week of sunlight, so a solar panel on this atomic clock would not require too much time in the sun to keep it going I would think.

$100 for a coconut? I can hire a tree trimmer for that and have the 100 coconuts that are going on the Samoan Palm tree in my front brought down. Seriously, that is a great incentive gift (just not for me). I wish John well with his projects.

The atomic watch as a convertible desk clock might make sense (I'm thinking Bovet like - except that it would not make very good pocket watch).

6 days, 15 hours ago on Bathys Cesium 133 Atomic Clock Watch Now On Kickstarter

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@RafGas Thanks. I googleed as you suggested and found this (in English): http://www.esmats.eu/esmatspapers/pastpapers/pdfs/2003/heneindroz.pdf

But it only deals with the pivot, not the buckling blade (instantaneous release of energy) which is the element common to the  GP and UN movements. 

I would argue that with the buckling blade tech, this is more than just a new pivot for a traditional Swiss Lever (actually invented by Englishman Thomas Mudge).

I was theorizing because I had read that Nicolas Déhon had 'shopped' the idea to a number of watch brands before finding a home for it with GP.

Cheers.

1 week ago on Ulysse Nardin Announces New Proprietary Silicon Anchor Escapement

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@Fraser Petrick Go forth and sin no more my son.

And when your wife catches you under the covers late at night with a flashlight, claim that you are looking at porn (so she won't hassle you about your watch fetish). Cheers.

1 week ago on Ulysse Nardin Announces New Proprietary Silicon Anchor Escapement

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@Fraser Petrick But quartz has no soul (and are less fun to watch which is really the point). A quartz watch is a 'black box' in that the magic goes unseen. Whereas a mechanical watch hopefully has some animation on either the front or back. Gotta admire the gizmos!

1 week ago on Ulysse Nardin Announces New Proprietary Silicon Anchor Escapement

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When I first saw it (before I read the explanation) I had the feeling that this was buckling blade technology similar to the GP Constant Escapement. While I loved watching the GP escapement at BaselWorld 2013, this UN implementation is vastly more compact which allows it to be used with greater flexibility in the overall watch design. Very cool stuff and perhaps an example of parallel evolution. But you have to wonder if UN had been pitched the buckling spring years ago before it found a home at GP and decided to go their own way with the concept.

The floating, virtual pivot for the level arm is what I find the most high tech aspect (lots of math/geometry at play along with the bending characteristics of the silicon blades).

Now we just need to see this tech in non-tourbillon timepieces at affordable prices.

1 week ago on Ulysse Nardin Announces New Proprietary Silicon Anchor Escapement

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Love that watch (and the 3 hander as well). Agree that the sailcloth strap is the winner. Great all around watch. It would almost pass as a dress watch and has the chops for serious dive watch or just all around sport watch. A gentleman's diver (rather than some huge lump of steel on a poser's wrist). I do wish the rotor was a bit less plain, but that's a pretty minor quibble.

1 week, 1 day ago on Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph Watch Hands-On

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@SuperStrapper The Blancpain Bathyscaph (both 3 hander and new chronograph) are more impressive in person than in photos. They are tool dive watches but are also elegant, well proportioned (the bezel does not overpower the dial for instance) and nicely finished. They are some of the few watches that could be your only watch if it came to that. Cheers.

1 week, 3 days ago on Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2014

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Yeah it is, ha ha. But a selfie with a DSLR instead of via a cell phone in this case.

1 week, 4 days ago on Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2014

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@Johnny Tank I'm not sure if there are any Eterna posts in the works or not. I'm trying to remember what they showed us. So many watches, it's all a blur.

1 week, 4 days ago on Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2014

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@topiary @Johnny Tank Normally, Ariel and James try to avoid those pesky reflections when shooting watches. In the case of the Eterna, the reflection was so bad yet so good that Ariel noticed it as soon as he shot it and pointed it out to James and I. He thought it was funny that it was such a 'mirror' shot of himself. It truly was unintentional, but he recognized its potential as an 'art shot' right away. So that's why it became the lead in photo for this BaselWorld post.

1 week, 4 days ago on Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2014

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@Zeitblom IWC's reputation for watches that are as accurate as time measurement during the bronze age? I dunno, just spit balling here...

1 week, 4 days ago on IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Charles Darwin Watch In Bronze Hands-On

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@Oelholm No technical details were given when we were at BaselWorld. Of course the pusher are not screw down items.

1 week, 6 days ago on Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback Watch

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@Ulysses31 Yeah, anodizing aluminum with various colors is well established. While with steel you usually go PVD or DLC routes which limits the colors.

1 week, 5 days ago on Hamilton Reveals The Khaki Pilot Pioneer Aluminum, A Hands-On With Their First Watch In Aluminum

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Are the Rolex Cellini watches in any way connected to Cellini Jewelers?

1 week, 5 days ago on Rolex Cellini Dual Time Watch For 2014 Hands-On

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Good thing there is some lume on the hands. I suspect they have too little contrast against the dial.

1 week, 5 days ago on The Clerc Hydroscaph H1 Watch Now On A Bracelet

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@DavidasaurusRex Agree, but this is one of the less obnoxious examples.

1 week, 5 days ago on The Clerc Hydroscaph H1 Watch Now On A Bracelet

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What a cute blue robot face. Not the classical look you usually get from UN in their novelty pieces, but interesting looking none the less. And sure has a lot of complications for a price that exceeds the price of my house. I wonder if they offer 30 year mortgage payments to make this within the reach of wage earners? Then after the market price goes up and you have paid your watch mortgage down, you can apply for a  WELOC (Watchowner's Equity Line Of Credit).

1 week, 5 days ago on Ulysse Nardin’s Imperial Blue Watch With Flying Tourbillon And 4-Gong Sonnerie In Sapphire Hands-On

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Odd that Ariel mentioned aluminum as bronze is, for the most part, copper mixed with tin (not aluminum).

I continue to like the idea of the bezel mechanism. Sure hope it holds up and does not get its holes clogged with sand  and dirt in the real world.

The face on the back looks like Friedrich Engels (of Marx and Engels fame/infamy) to me. Bronze, the gold of the proletariat, ha ha.

1 week, 5 days ago on IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Charles Darwin Watch In Bronze Hands-On

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I found the green one to be the most appealing at BaselWorld. The Hamilton reps (ladies) liked the blue best, but hey, there is too much 'blue' still showing up in watches this year. The blue is certainly not bad, but the green has more of a field vibe to it which matches this watch.  

Only time will tell how the case holds up to dents and scratches. So if the case were steel, would the commenters here who think the aluminum watch is over-priced be satisfied? Not that $1145 is cheap, but its not bad for what you are getting spec wise. And the case cost differential between steel and aluminum is probably less than $20 to Hamilton/Swatch. So at, say, $1200 in steel would this watch be acceptable?

1 week, 5 days ago on Hamilton Reveals The Khaki Pilot Pioneer Aluminum, A Hands-On With Their First Watch In Aluminum

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@Aytunc I agree. I really have a problem with the RL watches in that they try to be sort of a sporty/tool watch (marketed to appeal to an 'adventurer') yet have prominent roman numeral markers and formal pomme hands. Perhaps they are  trying for sporty elegance, but it comes off, to my mind, as a poser watch which is a dress watch shouting, 'hey I can play outdoors too'. With a different case, I could appreciate the dial and hands. Or with sportier dial and hands, I'd be OK with the case. As is, it's like some marketing person said, "people like chili and they like ice cream, so let's combine them".

1 week, 5 days ago on Ralph Lauren Sporting Classic Chronometer Steel Watch Hands On

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Love the Chopard Monaco and Blancpain Bathyscaph chronographs (which I had the pleasure to see at BaselWorld). No argument with the others on the list either. It's nice that only 2 of the 10 watches are over $15K USD. So, many of them are not completely out of reach for hard core watch geeks. And even better, half of the list comes in at $7700 or less.

1 week, 5 days ago on Top 10 Watches Of Baselworld 2014

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This watch on the black sail cloth strap is the killer combination in my opinion. They had this chrono on other straps at BaselWorld but they also had the non-chrono (introduced last year) on hand with the black sail cloth so we put them next to each other and it will be the way to order this watch if you ask me. Easily a personal top 10 BaselWorld watch for me. Loved the 3 hander Bathyscaph last year and this chrono is a welcome and equally nice addition to the line. Choices, choices...

1 week, 6 days ago on Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback Watch

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@Ulysses31 True enough for the need to time things at depth. But on the other hand, there is nothing to fear by using the chronograph in the rain and no problem if you are racing on a sailboat (where timing would be useful) and happen to take on water or fall overboard!!!

1 week, 6 days ago on Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronograph Flyback Watch

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The hacking of the seconds hand and tourbillon keeps the two of them together (hence the parallax) so the seconds hand and what looks like a half bridge of the tourbillon are always parallel. They could keep them together without hacking of course, but by using their way of letting the watch continue ticking and only stop at 12 (60) means you can set to the start of a minute (like Lange and some others do). But this way it keeps the tourbillon always engaged with the position of the seconds hand. There is no 'flyback' or chronograph reset sort of disengagement/re-enegagement of the seconds hand - rather they stop at 60 and wait for you to set the hour and minute hands, then they let it start again. And the seconds are dead beat (of course, right?).

1 week, 6 days ago on Gronefeld Parallax 1912 Tourbillon Watch

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@hautejalapeno As emenezes suggested - perhaps a Russian oligarchic.

3 weeks, 3 days ago on Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch: Engraved White Gold + Sapphire Crystal Case

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@Dezianjo Platinum is harder (or less soft perhaps) than gold. But I'm with you - the price difference makes little sense except that they charge what the market will bear.

3 weeks, 2 days ago on A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Tourbillon Watch Hands-On

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@antjay Dare I say, its a great watch in drag?

3 weeks, 2 days ago on Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Is Not So Logical After All

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@marbstiu If you plan to sell a gazillion copies of a watch, you can have almost anything custom made for a reasonable per unit price. But for a smaller brand to custom order differently printed date wheels (just one example) means higher unit costs and perhaps more importantly for low volume watches, minimum order quantity (MOQ) in the hundreds of parts per order. So you have to either sell a lot of watches with a given custom part or you have to price your lower volume watches higher to cover the costs. Plus there are tooling/setup fees when you want something done special (assuming you can find a supplier who will make/print what you want). All a hassle for smaller brands.

Cheers

3 weeks, 2 days ago on Armida A8 Brass Watch Review

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The high price of simplicity. This is how a vintage look should always be done. Restrained but well composed. I'm a big fan of the reset hacking seconds feature. Hopefully in 10 or 20 years that will be as common on affordable watches as simple hacking is now. I like the detail of having a real seconds hand on the tourbillon instead of the more common indicator as part of the cage or a 3 spoke indicator.

3 weeks, 3 days ago on A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Tourbillon Watch Hands-On

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@marbstiu A date at 4 o'clock often uses the same orientation as one for 3 o'clock. And the Chanel you linked to uses the same orientation (vertical) as a 6 o'clock date. But using an ETA 2824 or 289x movements as an example, the date wheel itself has to be printed with a different rotation of the numbers relative to the gear/teeth that the date changing mechanism engages. 

There are 31 teeth so you don't get an even 4 o'clock positioning by just punching out your dial at 4 using a standard 3 o'clock date wheel. I have seen some true 4 o'clock date wheels where the numbers are at a 45 degree angle but those are rare bears.

I mention all of this only so that when you see a date located between 3 and 6 but not precisely at either 4 or 4:30, this is means they are probably using standard date ring with a specific angle dial hole location. 

Or if you see one where its really is at 4 or 4:30, then the date ring was printed precisely for that angle/position. 

If you see a dive watch, for example, with the crown at 4 and the date at 4, then it's a standard date wheel and the entire movement is just rotated in the case (so just a movement ring change). 

You would think you could just rotate the date wheel, etc. but the teeth/gears don't allow for that.  Just a bit of internal watch geeky stuff I guess. Cheers.

3 weeks, 3 days ago on Armida A8 Brass Watch Review

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@Fraser PetrickStill without minute markers, but here is another take on the watch. The most important revision is in red :-)

http://65.61.16.97/watch/BellAndRossRegulatorBeforeAndAfter.jpg

1 month ago on Bell & Ross WW1 Regulateur Pink Gold Watch Hands-On

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I watched the video interview a few days ago when it was posted. Interesting guy. Firm in his views but that makes it possible for Bovet to 'stay the course' as he has set it out for the company. 

I noted that he kept coming back to "The Collector" as the customer they are serving. Not just some noobs with too much money, but rather someone who will appreciate both the mechanics of a Bovet and its artistry. 

That's the great thing about (well funded) retirement careers - you make what you want and how you want. Good for him for having that clarity and ability to live his dream. 

Too bad their watches are beyond the reach of mere mortals (like me).

1 month ago on Bovet Timepieces Owner Pascal Raffy On Patrimony, Values, And The True Meaning Of Luxury

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@Zeitblom No gold cases from me (at this point anyway). I defend that there needs to be some mark-up. But 100% on all parts, including gold, is a bit excessive for volume produced items. And I'm assume B&R plans to sell a fair number of them. For very limited production watches, the price model changes a lot as the tooling costs can equal the production costs for items made in quantities of 50 or less. 

Also, microbrands that sell direct can offer better prices than if their watches are sold by retailers. The retailer makes more money than the brand at 'keystone' pricing (50% of retail) as the watch maker has production costs. But its not all greed by the retailers either. Sometimes they have to pay 20% for 'mall rents' and then they have to pay their sales people wages and/or commissions. So their 50% cut (assuming they don't discount the watches) keeps getting eaten up too. In the end, the customer does have to pay for the retail sales experience. There is no free lunch. So gold in a retail store won't be anywhere need the gold bullion price per gram or ounce.

Having said all of that - if you want a somewhat affordable microbrand watch with diamonds and sapphires set in steel, I know where there is a unique piece for $5K.

1 month ago on Bell & Ross WW1 Regulateur Pink Gold Watch Hands-On

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@Fraser Petrick So with that math, I assume you want a Movado Museum watch for free (or maybe a small amount for it telling you when its 12:00:00)

4 weeks ago on Glashutte Original PanoLunarTourbillon Watch Hands-On

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@Fraser Petrick So you can whip it out and announce, "Tea time everyone", looking totally the part.

3 weeks, 3 days ago on Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch: Engraved White Gold + Sapphire Crystal Case

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The perfect timepiece for those with more money than horological taste. As in:

"I got this expensive watch (which I don't really understand) and my friends won't be sufficiently impressed with it unless there are diamonds all over it. Diamonds they understand. Gizmos they don't".

3 weeks, 3 days ago on Romain Gauthier Logical One Secret Is Not So Logical After All

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Is that a balance wheel or a drive wheel off a steam locomotive?

In a sense, it makes no sense. On the other hand, it is a great example of "Why Not?" They are making it because they can. And presumably someone will buy it. It is cool in a completely irrational way. Sure makes a statement. Not sure what that statement is. But I do want to see it in person to see if my impression will be "awesome" or "lame". Polarizing watch, which I guess is good as a 'buzz' piece for Zenith.

3 weeks, 3 days ago on Zenith Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu Watch: Engraved White Gold + Sapphire Crystal Case

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@LapYoda And how about a jellyfish band instead of white too?

3 weeks, 3 days ago on Swatch Scuba Libre Chlorofish Watch Review

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@Ulysses31 Watch vending machine, I love it. Imagine how many quarters it would take for a Swatch let alone a Patek.

3 weeks, 3 days ago on Swatch Scuba Libre Chlorofish Watch Review

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@admutum Very true. So, now the question is what activity does this watch match?

3 weeks, 3 days ago on Swatch Scuba Libre Chlorofish Watch Review

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@marbstiu Makes me think of the movie "Horrible Bosses" (Prius drag racing).

3 weeks, 4 days ago on Swatch Scuba Libre Chlorofish Watch Review

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The indications on the bezel are so close it appears to be a single, really large, number.

For $90,000 I would expect better anglage and beveling to say nothing of where are the Cote de Geneve stripes and circular graining on the gears? Or did I read the price incorrectly?

This would look great while driving a white 80s VW Golf Cabriolet (if you are that sort of guy). 

OK, its a fun watch that you won't be afraid to get wet. But I wouldn't dive with it. Maybe its a beach watch, yeah that could be it...

3 weeks, 4 days ago on Swatch Scuba Libre Chlorofish Watch Review

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@brtnspn Yeah maybe. The sun is also featured for what that may be worth.

3 weeks, 4 days ago on Rolex Watches At Baselworld 2014 Teaser Video

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@emenezes Good analogy (Porsche).

3 weeks, 4 days ago on What Are Rolex Oyster Professional Watches? A History

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@Ulysses31 I agree. Nowadays Tudor is striking out on their own with new and refreshed designs. But they also looked too often like just a "Poor Man's Rolex" in the past. And back to technical advances, I appreciate the ceramic case on the Tudor Fastrider Black Shield. Odd in a sense as I would expect Rolex to bring out their tech advances on Rolex branded watches first.

3 weeks, 4 days ago on What Are Rolex Oyster Professional Watches? A History

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@andrewtnichols Your phone does it by connecting to telephone networks which are centrally set knowing local daylight savings time. To have the Seiko do it, it would have to download the changing (year to year) DST schedule for all of the places on Earth that observe it. Cheers.

3 weeks, 4 days ago on Seiko Astron GPS Watch New Design Added For 2014

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