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@TomasinaCovell I have backed both the Bradley watch (for the visually impaired) and the Egard William Shatner watch and both have been delivered (and are worn by my daughter who works at BlackPoint Fine Watches). So while there is risk, it is possible to support watch projects which see the light of day.

21 hours, 14 minutes ago on The Real Story Behind The Bremont Wright Flyer In-House Made BWC/01 “London” Watch Movement

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@In Da House Actually, at this point in time (Sunday), Hoodinkee still has not posted a response from Bremont. I will agree that they are hosting another parallel lively discussion and they expect a statement from Bremont any day now, but strictly speaking from an editorial standpoint, they have yet to say anything on their own. It will be interesting to see if Bremont has any "movement" on their movement position.

1 day, 1 hour ago on The Real Story Behind The Bremont Wright Flyer In-House Made BWC/01 “London” Watch Movement

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@somethingnottaken Ah, but then it wouldn't be a Speedy would it? Cheers.

1 day, 3 hours ago on Watch What-If: Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon

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@csong36 I'll accept that as coming from a lady's point of view. Cheers.

1 day, 3 hours ago on Watch What-If: Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon

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@emenezes Thanks for a mini-review as an owner. That's always helpful and relevant.

1 day, 3 hours ago on Christopher Ward C65 Classic Watch

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@somethingnottaken What makes the Swatch Sistem 51 possible for a reasonable cost is HOW FEW HUMANS are involved in the process. They have what is no doubt the most automated watch production line in the world (and they are proud to say so). So, in effect you are proving my point that the labor costs often drive production to "developing nations" (a term I really don't like). And what makes the Sistem 51 possible to produce in Switzerland is the lack of labor costs. 

I agree that greater automation helps to level the playing field in manufacturing but we are not at the point (and probably never will be) where high labor rate countries can compete with low labor rate countries for production of physical items.

Fun to labor impacts discuss, but in the case of  Bremont, the labor rates of Britain and Switzerland are not really the issue driving things. 

I think this was clearly a case of not starting from ground zero but rather starting with an existing partner and an existing base movement (at least the going train). I really wisth Bremont had been more up front and stressed their partnership with LJP (which would have instilled more, not less, trust in my mind). I tend to be suspicious of completely new movements as ETA like reliability usually comes after years (or decades) of refinement. I'm glad that they worked with LJP.

1 day, 3 hours ago on The Real Story Behind The Bremont Wright Flyer In-House Made BWC/01 “London” Watch Movement

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@gyang333 ABTW has already said that Ariel collaborated with David on this post. While it was "by-lined" by David, this was partly a matter of him being in a time zone better suited to contact Bremont quickly for comment. But as an insider to the ABTW editing process, let me assure you there was a lot of discussion and input by the other editors and contributors of ABTW in the last 24 hours. Ariel and David are both responsible for the end result. Which I think was timely and well balanced as it made Bremont and some readers equally unhappy for opposite reasons. The truth in most situations is found in the middle ground. Cheers.

1 day, 3 hours ago on The Real Story Behind The Bremont Wright Flyer In-House Made BWC/01 “London” Watch Movement

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@aBlogtoWatch 

<rant>

We as watch enthusiasts and owners need to be less obsessed with "in-house caliber" (IHC) and more concerned with what the movement is - its features and design elements, materials, accuracy, reliability, finish, etc. Where it is made by and whom is interesting of course, but unless you are buying a vintage watch, the "heritage" of a movement seems pretty irrelevant to me. Modern movements need  to stand on their own merits.

If Bremont had said their new movement is unique to Bremont and was developed in England and with their manufacturing partner LJP in Switzerland all would have been well.

Much as I like Nick & Giles English and Bremont as a brand, their statement in the video clearly intends to give the watch buying public with the idea that Bremont alone designed and developed the movement (while acknowledging that the manufacture of it is only partially performed in the UK).

They went a bit too far and got caught doing it. All on them (and screw the "thief" attempt to divert the issue). But everyone makes mistakes and I'm sure they will learn from this one. 

And the greater damage is that it tarnishes their very credible efforts in moving to producing fully UK designed and developed movements. Notice that I did not say where the movements should be produced. 

Nations with a historical manufacturing capability (such as the UK and the US) have become more so knowledge based economies with manufacturing moving to places with lower labor rates. Assuming that quality standards are maintained, where a piece of metal is made is not all that important in the greater scheme of things. 

Before anyone disagrees with this statement, you'd better look into parts being made in Asia (OK, we are talking about China) which go into "Swiss" watches. Notice that the Swiss FHS 

(http://www.fhs.ch) which pressures the Swiss government to legally define what "Swiss Made" means in relation to watches, does not go for 100% Swiss made. Parts come from all over in this global economy. And labor sourcing often follows labor rates. As they say, do the math.

So to me, where a part is made does not matter so much. Where the control aspects are located do matter to me. Where is it designed matters as some countries are still better known for "we give you good price" that "we give you best quality". Where the quality standards are defined and enforced matter to me. Where it is encased and regulated matter to me. It shouldn't be that way assuming international quality standards are meet, but in the real world it does still matter.

Do "Muricans" really care that some car engines come from Canada and in some cases that final assembly of "American" cars is also done there? Do I care if some German watch brands still get their balance springs from Swiss Nivarox? Do I care if a steel watch case (assuming is well machined and finished) comes from China?

So I don't care that the new Bremont movement is largely made (and  perhaps enginered) in Switzerland. But I do care about a brand fudging on the truth as that destroys their credibility in my eyes. 

</rant>

1 day, 7 hours ago on The Real Story Behind The Bremont Wright Flyer In-House Made BWC/01 “London” Watch Movement

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I like the Tron one. The others are OK too except for the Barbie model.

1 day, 23 hours ago on Watch What-If: Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon

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@bichondaddy The $500 I spent was for a new, not used,  tourbillon. Cheers.


2 days, 4 hours ago on 3D Printed Working Co-Axial Tourbillon 1000% By Nicholas Manousos Hands-On

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@TomasinaCovell I believe it has as Seagull tourbillon movement. The dial has "Minorva" (not Minerva of course, ha ha) on it. The overall case and dial style are Breguet inspired. The back shows geneva stripes and blued screws. I don't wear it much these days as I pretty much just wear my own watches. But I think it kept good time back when it was in my daily rotation a few years ago. Please excuse the quick and dirty cell phone photos. It wears smaller than its 42 mm case size would have you expect. Cheers.

2 days, 9 hours ago on 3D Printed Working Co-Axial Tourbillon 1000% By Nicholas Manousos Hands-On

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@Ulysses31 An actual tourbillon watch for a lot less in fact. I picked up a Chinese tourbillon for $500 (new) on eBay about 5 years ago.

2 days, 19 hours ago on 3D Printed Working Co-Axial Tourbillon 1000% By Nicholas Manousos Hands-On

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Very cool. Now I have to see when I can talk Richard Paige into buying one for BlackPoint Fine Watches (his new store in the Sheraton Waikiki in Honolulu).


It's a great way to observe in slow motion how the escapement works. But a torque device to continuously drive it would make it a great automaton for a watch store. Of course, later the full movement would be even better.

2 days, 21 hours ago on 3D Printed Working Co-Axial Tourbillon 1000% By Nicholas Manousos Hands-On

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@MarkOs The power reserve gives those watches a monkey face. I realize at 42 and 40 mm these are likely aimed at men, but they look like ladies watches to me.

3 days, 1 hour ago on Cartier Rotonde Small Complication Watches Now In Steel

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@somethingnottaken  Yeah, does seem odd. But maybe this freed up cash for them and let PD focus on only have to develop and sell one brand instead of two (PD and Eterna).

3 days, 1 hour ago on The Future Of Porsche Design Watches And The Timepiece No. 1

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@DG Cayse Well we can dream can't we? But realistically a watch with an ETA 7750 chronograph rarely retails for $1500 USD. Sadly, even $2K would be lower than expected. The price of a 7750 movement is roughly 2 to 3 times that of an ETA 2824. 

For a company known as a design house, I don't expect a bargain basement price, but I would expect a very nice and well thought out design with some innovation thrown in. Cheers.

3 days, 22 hours ago on The Future Of Porsche Design Watches And The Timepiece No. 1

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Not to sound too underwhelmed, but based on the (provisional) drawing and the use of an ETA 7750 this does not add up to a very exciting initial product. At this point PD = Pedestrian Design. Guess I was hoping for more. Hopefully this throw away design just buys them time for their IHC and a more distinctive case next time.

3 days, 23 hours ago on The Future Of Porsche Design Watches And The Timepiece No. 1

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@MitchellJohnston So you don't like the in-house rotor on Bremont's LJP movement? Kidding...

4 days, 3 hours ago on Revised Weiss Standard Issue Field Watch Now Packs More US-Made Key Components

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@Aytunc I walked through the room while my wife was watching network drivel the other night and it occurred to me that if extra-terrestrials only formed their impressions of Earth humans from these broadcasts, that all Americans are bi-racial and half of everyone is gay. Ah, Hollywood and political correctness (which changes from day to day anyway).

4 days, 9 hours ago on Revised Weiss Standard Issue Field Watch Now Packs More US-Made Key Components

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@Feller87 Looks like an ETA (Unitas) 6497 movement.

4 days, 11 hours ago on Revised Weiss Standard Issue Field Watch Now Packs More US-Made Key Components

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@SuperStrapper Does Spring Drive count in your book?

4 days, 11 hours ago on Arnold & Son DSTB Watch Hands-On

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Another gorgeous A&S piece. Definitely one of my favorites at BaselWorld 2014.  Looks even better in person. Its  fun to watch the anchor move too. While on one hand a dead beat seconds might seem like the opposite of what you expect in a  mechanical watch (bringing to mind quartz movements with their 1 second beat for power conservation), a mechanical dead beat is essentially a secondary escapement. And in this case, one that is presented for your viewing pleasure on the face of the watch.

4 days, 19 hours ago on Arnold & Son DSTB Watch Hands-On

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I like it. An honest tool watch. Do wish the price was a few thousand less. At  $6K this is not an inexpensive watch and gets into the territory where there are lots of interesting watches (and ones with in-house calibers if that matters to you).

5 days, 18 hours ago on Bremont Terra Nova GMT Watch Hands-On

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Sure is impressive looking - and provides all of the precision of single hand Meistersinger (5 minutes of resolution).

6 days, 4 hours ago on Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Ferrari Titanium Yellow Watch Hands-On

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@jesvtine Just don't lose that winder power drill or else she will never be satisfied.

6 days, 4 hours ago on Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Ferrari Titanium Yellow Watch Hands-On

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@SuperStrapper @BIGCHRONO I think he said "disgrace" not "failure". (just to be picky)

6 days, 4 hours ago on Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Ferrari Titanium Yellow Watch Hands-On

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@Fraser Petrick Yep, $345K will buy the sick a lot of tissues.

6 days, 4 hours ago on Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Ferrari Titanium Yellow Watch Hands-On

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@MisterDeal Looks like all crankshaft and no con-rods or pistons to me.

6 days, 4 hours ago on Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Ferrari Titanium Yellow Watch Hands-On

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@antjay I like the F cars but I agree on the conspicuous consumption of this watch. (and a BMW guy myself). But then if you spend more than an actual Ferrari automobile, then your expenditure should draw some attention. Not what I aspire to wear either. And I want Darth Vader's voice (James Earl Jones) to come from the watch - "Mark, I'm your watch, join me with that electric power drill winder and we will rule the galaxy for another 50 days".
.

6 days, 4 hours ago on Hublot MP-05 LaFerrari Ferrari Titanium Yellow Watch Hands-On

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@GradyPhilpott I might be  able to afford a Rolex tatoo with drug money savings. 

Rolex as the watch of the middle class? Not anymore. It is what they perhaps aspire to when they becomes affluent enough (or wish to appear to be more successful than they are). I realize these are not your motivations.

Yeah, if I lived in a cardboard box I could use my mortgage money for a Rolex. But for most of the middle class, Rolex is not a viable option in the usual mix of expenses. But thanks for your perspective, because you are right - with enough sacrifice lots of things are possible.

6 days, 5 hours ago on How And Why Rolex Prices Have Increased Over Time

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@socabaptist I stopped the video after a minute as that was what it took to see the central chronograph minute hand. Very cool. The narrator might eventually get to that  but I was already tired of hearing him pronounce it as "sin" instead of the German "zin". Thanks for the video and info.

6 days, 18 hours ago on Sinn EZM 13 Watch Hands-On

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@DG Cayse Very good point Mr. Cayse, thanks.

1 week ago on How And Why Rolex Prices Have Increased Over Time

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@crossxwind OMG - figures I guess, but I'm still horrified.

1 week ago on Memorigin Transformers Tourbillon Watches With Optimus Prime Or Bumblebee

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@Fraser Petrick The bezel brings to mind Bvlgari Bvlgari (or is it Mary Hartmann, Mary Hartmann).

1 week ago on Omega Constellation Co-Axial 38mm Watch Review

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Maybe I missed it in the review, but what is that thickness? I know watches with Omega Co-Axials tend to be thick and these look that way too. Too bad as I tend to think dress watches should be thinner (no more than 12mm and better at under 10 mm). I suppose they will use a new 9300 series movement next year, but that is still a thick one.

1 week ago on Omega Constellation Co-Axial 38mm Watch Review

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Sebastien is a cool guy, very approachable and obviously brilliant. I love his movements. Wwhat a talented and prolific guy. I had the pleasure of briefly meeting him at BaselWorld 2014 at the A&S booth.

1 week ago on My First Grail Watch: Sebastien Chaulmontet Of Arnold & Son

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@gadgety Big brands are like that in their booths - manned by employees who don't want to lose their jobs. The small brands and the AHCI (independent guys like Voutilainen, Gronefeld Bros, Sarpeneva, etc.) are quite the opposite - direct access to the watchmakers and very casual and relaxed but passionate about their watches. But even Kari does wear a suit, ha ha.

1 week ago on How And Why Rolex Prices Have Increased Over Time

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@GradyPhilpott  Damn greedy orphans! (I'm kidding of course)

1 week, 1 day ago on How And Why Rolex Prices Have Increased Over Time

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@gadgety @MarkCarson Ah yes...making it even more exclusive so those attending feel even more special. But realistically, going to BaselWorld as a consumer is sort of worthless. You can look at watches though the windows on the outside of the booths but that's about it. You have to be a buyer (watch distributors or major retailers) or a member of the press to get a meeting and make it inside the booths where the watches are shown to you hands on. I remember my first day at BW 2013 where I did not hook up with Ariel and James until 5 P.M. I spent the afternoon wandering around looking at showcases from the outside of the booths and thinking to myself, "There is no way I can spend a week doing this." After that I was attending meetings with A & J and it became very interesting. Access is the key.

1 week, 1 day ago on How And Why Rolex Prices Have Increased Over Time

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@gadgety No I have not exhibited at BaselWorld. I went with Ariel and James Stacey in 2013 and 2014 to help cover the show (and its fun anyway to see so much cool stuff). At my current production levels it would make zero sense to exhibit there (in one of the off-the-beaten-path halls). Besides, then I would be tethered to my booth and could not cruise around and see everything. I know that because I asked people in the big brand booths what they had seen and they replied, nothing - they were stuck working all day.

1 week, 1 day ago on How And Why Rolex Prices Have Increased Over Time

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@gadgety As a Richemont brand, you would see IWC at SIHH and not at BaselWorld. But for brands that show at BaselWorld (and not at SIHH), the scenario is the same as  you describe - that is where they fill their order books for the year. And make no mistake about it - SIHH and BaselWorld are marketing. Very directed marketing - towards the buyers rather than the end consumers. Cheers.

1 week, 1 day ago on How And Why Rolex Prices Have Increased Over Time

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@somethingnottaken Some things are actually much cheaper (adjusted for inflation) now than in the 1950s. TVs and porn are just 2 examples.

1 week, 1 day ago on How And Why Rolex Prices Have Increased Over Time

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@Fraser Petrick Just don't make your 3 minute egg between 25 and 42 after the hour!

1 week, 1 day ago on Vicenterra GMT-3 Volume 2 Watch Hands-On

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@aetracht It might be a bit of parallax in the observed angles of the various markings.

1 week, 1 day ago on How To Use A Watch Bezel Slide Rule

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@LapYoda I agree - if Rolex was advancing the state of the art they way they did decades ago, one could make the case for R&D costs. But these days they seem to just be milking the cash cow.

1 week, 1 day ago on How And Why Rolex Prices Have Increased Over Time

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@Ulysses31 I think every society in every country has rich and poor. In the U.S., my suspicion is that the rich are getting richer and the poor are getting poorer. We are seeing an erosion of the middle class and are in danger in the years to come of having a bipolar wealth distribution (while can lead to civil unrest in the extreme).

So perhaps the higher end of the watch market can cater to the wealthier segment of the population and let cell phones and plastic quartz watches have the lower income segment. So I think the real losers are those still in the middle class to somewhat affluent who would still like to have a nice watch without spending 2 months salary for it.

1 week, 1 day ago on How And Why Rolex Prices Have Increased Over Time

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@antjay Thanks - and for the record, as a small guy I do not have economies of scale that would allow for an even better value proposition. But my watches start at right where the Submariner "should" cost based on inflation alone. I'm not saying my watches are better or worse than a 1950s Sub, but they are comparable in some aspects. 

As iconic watches from big brands have become luxury items, the consumer is left paying for all of that marketing expense. I'm sure that Rolex and others are laughing all of the way to the bank, but the real winners must be the media that gets those advertising dollars (which were pretty non-existent 60 years ago). From what I hear, big brands spend more on advertising than they do on materials and labor. So you are buying status/image (whatever) more than a piece of micro-machinery on a dollar spent basis. Perceived value is a very odd animal. Cheers.

1 week, 1 day ago on How And Why Rolex Prices Have Increased Over Time

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I think the price is outstanding. But that case looks like a lump on the wrist. If it has a curve to the case back, it does not appear to do much when worn. In lots of ways this watch, design-wise, is up there with Greubel Forsey and others. But being based on an ETA 2892 and not an hand-made tourbillon, it has a down to earth price. Bravo.

1 week, 2 days ago on Vicenterra GMT-3 Volume 2 Watch Hands-On

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