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@SuperStrapper Now that we have mentioned the Apple Watch and iPhone, this post will no doubt attract more traffic (and trolling comments - what have we done?)
1 hour, 55 minutes ago on Is The Govberg ‘My Watch Box’ iPhone App The Start Of Something All Watch Collectors Need?
@SuperStrapper Yes, iPhones are needed for those silly Apple Watches.
2 hours, 10 minutes ago on Is The Govberg ‘My Watch Box’ iPhone App The Start Of Something All Watch Collectors Need?
@BacoNoir Jeremey is talking about maybe doing a future meetup featuring American brands. So you might want to stay in touch with him if that interests you.
9 hours, 51 minutes ago on Buying Watches In Denver, Colorado: Oster Jewelers
CarFax for watches? WatchFax perhaps?
No Android (or PC) version yet - that's a problem. Otherwise an interesting idea. Privacy issues come to mind too.
16 hours, 23 minutes ago on Is The Govberg ‘My Watch Box’ iPhone App The Start Of Something All Watch Collectors Need?
@notech47 You've found a new 200 meter diver with the same movement for around $78? Wow, that's a steal.
18 hours, 40 minutes ago on Kentex Marineman Seahorse Watch Review
@egznyc An automatic uses what amounts to a friction clutch so that after the mainspring is fully wound, additional torque (from the rotor or the winding stem) just causes a slippage and the main spring does not receive any more "winds". In contrast, there is a fixed mechanical connection in a hand wind watch and over winding causes more torque - as much as you crank into it - to be applied the mainspring. At some point you will give up as the pressure makes it feel like the winding has stopped. Or if you are Conan the Barbarian and keep twisting, something will break. The winding stem or the mainspring or a gear.
18 hours, 49 minutes ago on Movement Hands-On Series Episode 3: The Revolutionary Eterna Caliber 39
@Chaz_Hen I had to sneek that in there after having tried it on at BaselWorld 2015. Bart and Tim Gronefeld especially wanted the blue lettering (which can show up black is some photos) to be shown correctly. I figured since Jeremy specifically mentioned Gronefeld I could include this shot. Aloha.
1 day, 3 hours ago on Buying Watches In Denver, Colorado: Oster Jewelers
@5803822 What I have found in doing this series is how many retailers really love Bremont and really find dealing with the English brothers to be refreshing. Good to always keep an open mind.
@WillyChu I switched to using Elabore grade ETA 2824-2 movements over a year ago (and do mention the grade on my website). And yeah - they are even harder to get and cost more. In my experience, even a Standard grade ETA 2824 will perform better than +/- 12 seconds per day and 30 seconds between positions. More like within 0 - 3 seconds in any given position and less than 15 seconds deviation between all positions. Even a Mityoa running at 3 Hz can be very accurate in any given position. An Elabore grade ETA looks a lot nicer than a Standard grade movement.
Another aspect of timing that never seems to get mentioned is how fast or slow a movement settles into a steady rate after a position change. Some watches are really bad during and shortly after a change in orientation. So you could have a watch that performs well on a timing machine but does poorly on an active wrist.
1 day, 14 hours ago on Movement Hands-On Series Episode 3: The Revolutionary Eterna Caliber 39
@DG Cayse @MarkCarson Prices will be higher than the old days (of readily available ETA movements) but at least there will be more choice.
@Fraser Petrick You're telling me!
1 day, 16 hours ago on Buying Watches In Carmel-By-The-Sea, California: Jewelry Atelier
Thanks for the update David. I remember asking Eterna about availability of the caliber 39 back in 2013 at BaselWorld. At that time they said they only had enough capacity for the needs of Eterna brand watches. So its nice to hear that production has ramped up and hopefully they will have movements available to 3rd parties.
2 days, 1 hour ago on Movement Hands-On Series Episode 3: The Revolutionary Eterna Caliber 39
@notech47 "Whose brain is this?" "Abby someone. Oh yes, Abby Normal".
2 days, 8 hours ago on Harry Winston Histoire De Tourbillon 6 Watch
@egznyc Am I supposed to be a "Goodfella" then? Cheers
2 days, 10 hours ago on Buying Watches In Carmel-By-The-Sea, California: Jewelry Atelier
@egznyc @MarkCarson @Ulysses31 OK, here I am in a "photoshopped visit" to Jewelry Atelier. Just another watch bozo is candy land.
2 days, 15 hours ago on Buying Watches In Carmel-By-The-Sea, California: Jewelry Atelier
Does the "reset" function on the 2nd time display (when being used as a chronograph) restore the previous time of day? If so, this is very cool. Otherwise, this hack to zero function makes an OK whole minute chronograph but a poor second time zone display if you have to use the crown to re-adjust it after chrono use.
Sure this is a crazy piece (with a price tag to match) but without the Opus watches, these sort of watches take the place as HW halo pieces.
2 days, 15 hours ago on Harry Winston Histoire De Tourbillon 6 Watch
@Lode_Runner There is a lot of truth if what you are saying. But the situation is always grayer and less black and white than we would like.
Yes the Swiss are very careful to stay at the required percentages to still be "Swiss Made" (a internationally copyrighted mark BTW). But many of them dance at the edge of what it takes to stay just within bounds.
What do you think of a large, well known Swiss brand (one of the top 5) who is widely suspected to use cases stamped out in China? Then finished in Switzerland.
And it is legal (for Swiss Made) to have movement parts made in Asia and have them finished and assembled (a task you consider to be menial) in Switzerland and because of value added (Swiss labor rate driven) to be legally "Swiss Movements". They can then go into those Chinese made cases, adjusted (more likely just scoped to make sure they are within timing tolerances) and sold as Swiss watches. The Swiss are not fools and they know where to save money where they can. They all like to talk about protecting Swiss jobs and Swiss industry, but when it comes to spending francs, they off-shore when they can and work to say just within the letter (but not the spirit) of the law. I don't fault them for this BTW. Just don't be fooled into thinking that everything in a Swiss watch is made by a craftsman wearing lederhosen in a chalet with a view of the Jura mountains.
That the Detroit Watch Co designs and assembles their watches in Detroit works for me. They are an American company (taking capital risks, designing, assembling, distributing, etc.) who get parts from out there on the global manufacturing base.
If Grenchen (the home of ETA) was magically lifted and placed 20 miles northwest into France, do you realize how many Swiss Watches could no longer be called "Swiss Made"? Shinola basically set up a Ronda (Swiss quartz movement maker) production line in Detroit. So they are American made using "Swiss Parts". I'm not saying this is good or bad, but it does show how an issue is made intentionally grayer.
I'm not personally thrilled with this Detroit Watch Co piece, but I wish them well and look forward to what they release next time.
Sorry about the long post.
2 days, 16 hours ago on Detroit Watch Company Pride Of Detroit Aviator Watch Review
@iamcalledryan What about the reversed 24 hour markers for the southern hemisphere?
2 days, 16 hours ago on Richard Mille RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Regatta “Les Voiles De St. Barth” 2015 Limited Edition Watch Hands-On
Legitimate question time: Can this watch optionally run the GMT (24 hour) hand counter-clockwise (for the southern hemisphere)? If so, then the North/South hemisphere hour markings make sense. Otherwise they don't that I can see. If the GMT can can run in 'reverse', then this is a very cool unmentioned feature (or I missed it) and it makes for a rough compass rose using the sun (by pointing the 24 hour hand - using local time, not GMT - at the sun) either above or below the equator.
3 days, 2 hours ago on Richard Mille RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Regatta “Les Voiles De St. Barth” 2015 Limited Edition Watch Hands-On
@BrJean Still hard to read, but at least it does not cause hysterical blindness.
3 days, 3 hours ago on Richard Mille RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Regatta “Les Voiles De St. Barth” 2015 Limited Edition Watch Hands-On
Makes a Breitling Navitimer look clean and uncluttered in comparison. Sure glad it looks better in person, 'cause in the photos it looks like they could not a have made it any uglier (or harder to read).
3 days, 6 hours ago on Richard Mille RM 60-01 Automatic Flyback Chronograph Regatta “Les Voiles De St. Barth” 2015 Limited Edition Watch Hands-On
@Ulysses31 I only wish ABTW had a travel budget that allowed for physical interviews. These are done via email (sniff).
4 days, 20 hours ago on Buying Watches In Carmel-By-The-Sea, California: Jewelry Atelier
@ZL Yeah, I know plexiglass is retro but these days, it's like "really?"
5 days, 8 hours ago on Junghans Max Bill Watch Range Updated For 2015
Fairly priced and overall nice and clean looking. But...the lume on only some of the hour markers: To paraphrase Yoda, "Dot, or dot not. There is no 12, 3, 6 & 9". Only putting lume dots on a quarter of the hours is a design miss for me. But it's a good watch when only something this minor is worth griping about.
5 days, 11 hours ago on Junghans Max Bill Watch Range Updated For 2015
@Ulysses31 @Shawnnny Since you are a Brit, we will forgive you U31 - but it's in the Bill of Rights (one of the first 10 amendments to the U.S. Constitution). But your pun still works. Cheers
6 days, 3 hours ago on Wearing The Over $18,000,000 Jacob & Co. Billionaire Watch
@Frauss @Shawnnny Trimmed, not shaved. And yes that is a benefit (if you are Ariel, ha ha).
6 days, 9 hours ago on Wearing The Over $18,000,000 Jacob & Co. Billionaire Watch
@Frauss @MarkCarson I agree - it reeks, ha ha.
@Fraser Petrick Imagine if this ugly watch was produced by Rolex or Apple... (200 comments?)
6 days, 18 hours ago on Wearing The Over $18,000,000 Jacob & Co. Billionaire Watch
@iamcalledryan I'm not sure a diamond encrusted condom would work as well.
@egznyc @MarkCarson Starts off as a wallet. (sorry about that - ruins the joke, I know).
6 days, 18 hours ago on All About The 18k Gold Apple Watch Edition
The smiley face in the word Billionaire on the case back cracks me up.
I wonder if you can go shopping for a Ferrari and just pay by removing a bracelet link?
Maybe they will produce a "Thousandaire" version without the diamonds? The movement looks fine and the hands provide great legibility so who knows, maybe like the Apple Edition gold watch, this may just be a halo product to get mere mortals to buy more affordable Jacob & Co watches. Naw...probably not.
1 week ago on Wearing The Over $18,000,000 Jacob & Co. Billionaire Watch
@egznyc The way I tell that joke is starts off as a well and expands into a full size suitcase (and is made with left-overs from infant males).
1 week ago on All About The 18k Gold Apple Watch Edition
@nvjim @MarkCarson @Grinnie Jax The case is somewhat different so while it uses the standard Apple Watch guts, it does appear to be a different item. And likely uses standard straps too.
1 week, 1 day ago on All About The 18k Gold Apple Watch Edition
@nvjim @Grinnie Jax Maybe if Apple had changed the case's appearance then that plus the precious metal used might make it appear to be a different product in the consumer's eye (while still having the same functionality of course). As is, the $17K watch looks like a different colored version of the cheap-ass one that every 15 year old will be wearing in a year. If it does not look "luxury" (whatever that is), then it's going to be a hard sell. I know it's a halo product (like show/concept cars are). But the gold Edition watch is too similar to the lesser models. Yyan Arpa might have the right idea (hideous as it is) with a new gold case iced out. The Vertu phone did not look like just another Android phone after all (not that this is much of a example of how to do it right with a luxury tech item).
@nvjim @MarkCarson Yeah, who knew it would someday be the "Jackie O" wannabe former decathlete on the box.
@nvjim Maybe but 30 years from now it will be worth more if it is still in the original box and never played with (like a Barbie). But in 20 years when the owner says "It was worn by Paris Hilton" (or anyone named Kardashian), Corey (Rick will be retired by then) will say "Who? Oh, yeah I think I remember her. Wasn't her 15 minutes of fame over long ago?"
Stephan is sort of a quiet guy but you can tell there is a lot going in that mind of his. His manner is reserved yet he produces some playful and imaginative watches. You can see his sense of humor in some of his watches. When I spoke with him at BaselWorld 2014, he said that he does not produce much stock per se and mostly produces watches as ordered by customers. So there is a lot of bespoke work going on with his brand. Interesting guy and like other AHCI members you often get to deal directly with the watchmaker/designer when you commission or order a watch from him.
1 week, 1 day ago on My First Grail Watch: Stepan Sarpaneva
@mikarvey @Guideaux And remember, once someone is clearly identified as a troll, the best course of action is: "DO NOT FEED THE TROLL." They crave attention and someone to fight with. So I'm no longer directly replying to him here or in any other posts.
1 week, 1 day ago on 10 Things To Know About How Rolex Makes Watches
@iamcalledryan I'm a big Blancpain fan but I don't love all of their watches. And this one is cool technically but not my cup of tea visually. I concur with your comments on the appearance. Maybe there is some demographic that wants this watch.
1 week, 1 day ago on Blancpain L-Evolution Tourbillon Carrousel Watch For 2015 Hands-On
@JPonce @Quijote Not to disagree with you in any way. But I would offer that the original IBM PC (which was not the first personal computer) also brought legitimacy as a product category. Apple will do the same. However note that the personal computing has evolved (well at least changed) to cell phone and tablets from desktop systems for many consumers of data. The functionality that a connected, wearable device will bring may also evolve from the hotel bar of soap sized Apple Watch into other forms. Straps, Google Glass like devices, implants, etc. In the end, the Apple Watch may only steal wrist space in the way that the original IBM PC stole desk top real estate (before it moved to towers under the desk and then to the server room). But there will be disruption for a while for sure. Cheers.
@bichondaddy On a government agent's salary?
@Quijote @JPonce I think you are right. It may very well be a failure in terms of Apple's expectations but will still sell in the millions of units the first year. And you are also correct that the non-watch press has reported a tepid reaction by the public so far.
1 week, 2 days ago on All About The 18k Gold Apple Watch Edition
@Ulysses31 @Grinnie Jax Or maybe there is simply great reader interest in Apple Watches (and Rolex watches for that matter).
Breguet (another Swatch brand in the same sub-group) does have peripheral rotor automatics. However this one appears to be a hand winder. I'm guessing the small gear at 3 (seen from the back) engages the large gear ring which in turn drives the gears for the 2 barrels (with Lamborghini wheel styling). This looks like a cute way to distribute the winding force without using large gears that would cover up the escapements and other stuff. Cheers.
1 week, 2 days ago on Blancpain L-Evolution Tourbillon Carrousel Watch For 2015 Hands-On
@iamcalledryan Very true, all drawings and renders shown. But if that works for you, I have new watch designs I will sell you but I only have renders right now too.
1 week, 2 days ago on Scuderia Ferrari Formula Italia Watches: “Made In Italy” & Affordable
@JamesButtery Are we looking at the same pictures? The ones in this post all have seconds hands.
"When you're out to dinner wearing your elegant Patek, but you keep
getting interrupted by incessant notifications from the iPhone in your
pocket or purse, would you ever wish you had chosen to wear your rose
gold Apple Edition Watch that evening?"
Well, no actually I would not. If I were having a nice dinner and wearing a Patek the last thing I would want is a notification that someone posted a photo on Facebook of a plate lunch they are having at the same time. (Plate lunches are consumed any time of day in Hawaii).
@JamesWWIII @MarkCarson @Guideaux
ar·bi·tra·torˈärbəˌtrādər/noun noun: arbitrator; plural noun: arbitrators an independent person or body officially appointed to settle a dispute.
Arbiter or arbitrator, a person by whose decision the parties to a dispute agree to be bound in arbitration
So both are correct, but you would have known that wouldn't you?
1 week, 2 days ago on 10 Things To Know About How Rolex Makes Watches
@Grinnie Jax Maybe they would have done better if the did not have such a Chinese sounding company name and did not say "Best" four times in a row.
@Evitzee Yes the mark-up for the gold case is crazy (as I've already commented). But insane mark-up on precious metal cases is nothing new for watches. An additional $20K for a gold case is not unheard of for high end watches. Heck some times you see that much price difference between gold and platinum cased watches (which are roughly the same material price - today gold is $1206 and platinum is $1169 per ozt). I think Apple is just more than willing to cash in on the already supported (stupid) mark-up for precious metal cases.